Sicily Day 3
The heat isn’t only in the kitchen
As you may have read, Europe is in the grip of a heat wave. We’re getting it here in Catania, with temperatures in the high 80s, and a no-cloud sky, which makes walking around a chore. We are both in hat and sunglasses, and I am a little amazed at how many of the locals go around without either. But then, coming from the American northwest, we are much more used to gray skies and cool temperatures.
Because there’s no respite from the sun we are using sun block of 100 SPF, which has effectively kept us from burning. But it also has the consistency of wet cement, and that means it’s like wearing another item of clothing beneath what we already have on, making one even hotter.
Catania actually doesn’t have that much to sightsee. The main attractions are the churches and a few Roman ruins. I hate to say it this way, but after a couple of churches they all kind of seem the same, vast and ornate monoliths of worship. Each also seems to have the body of a long ago saint encased in glass lying somewhere in the apse. Catania’s patron saint is Agatha and her story is on display in every church we’ve visited. She was martyred in 251 A.D., and her body, according to the church displays, did more traveling in death than it did in life.
The high point of our day was a private cooking class in with Chef Paola of Tacchi and Sapori. We’ve taken pasta making classes on our European trips before, but nothing quite like this one. Our previous classes were very basic, and in one case we really didn’t get to do much except watch the chef make everything. But this time we were involved from the start, turning out housemade gnocchi, tortellini, cappelletti, and ziti. The gnocchi was the most fun, and I’ve already got a gnocchi board in my Amazon cart for when we get home. With it we made a Sicilian pesto that put traditional pesto to shame. Instead of pinenuts and Parmesan, this one uses almonds and salted ricotta, and a little walnut spice. Sicilians are very fond of the nuts grown on the island. Quite a few dishes include pistachio. Ever since our trip last year we’ve been using pistachio cream and pistachio pesto in our cooking at home.
Today is a day trip to Taormina. Temperatures are supposed to be in the 90s… Wait! Just got a revised weather report. Hi of 82 here and 80 in Taormina. Some good news to start the day.
Photo by Dona.
Maybe you should head down to Siracusa now. It may or may not be a bit cooler, but there are plenty of things to see. High 80s? That's not so warm. Just wait for July and August. The heat spell has already broken in France and Germany and farther east. Enjoy that world!
PJ Blumenthal is right about heading down to Siracusa but not just for the weather. Filled with organic restaurants, the ancient (as in Greek) mostly pedestrian neighborhood of Ortigia is on an island in the middle the port. One of the best street markets in Italy (swordfish, spices, fresh everything). Sicilians will tell you Ortigia is a joy. Worth an overnight stay! Depending on your itinerary, you might want to consider heading around to the north side of Etna and from Milazzo taking a ferry out to Lipari or Stromboli (Homer’s Aeolean Islands). Stay a couple days. Wherever you go, eat lots of arancini!